Saigon traffic straight from within - going by Xe Om
another articel I published in the saigon times....
The real thing
The first thing that hits you when entering Ho Chi Minh City is the traffic. A traffic that cannot be compared to any other place in the world. Motorbikes. Wherever you look. Motorbikes, Motorbikes, Motorbikes. Honda, Daelim, Minsk. Vietnam has the highest motorbike per capita rate on earth. Around 3 million of them in Ho Chi Minh City alone. And it seems as if the Vietnamese ride their motorbikes 24/7. Not surprising at all, that Vietnamese traffic is considered to be one of the most dangerous worldwide. Eventhough the nicest way to explore the urban jungle of Saigon is still on a Motorbike. And the best solution, unless you are an experienced driver, is on the back of a Motorbike Taxi. In Vietnam these Taxis are called "Xe Om" and if translated litteraly this means "hugging vehicle" due to the fact that you sit very close to the driver, almost hugging him. Using a Xe Om has many advantages. It's not only the quickest solution but also one of the the cheapest. But an even better reason to take a Xe Om is the unique experience of Saigon traffic straight from within. As you don't have to care about driving, you can spend all the time in the world just looking around, gazing. You will see things which you never thought to be possible, a complete family on a single motorbike for instance, a Honda loaded with so many goods that the driver can barely see, or a live pig transported on the back of a bike. Riding through Ho Chi Minh City during rush hour is one of the Vietnam-experiences that are not to forget. And its a "real" one, as this insane traffic is an essential part of Vietnamese every day life.
Get in touch with the locals
Riding the Xe Om is also a good way to get in touch with the locals as most drivers speak good English and often French as well. After a day swallowing the dust of Ho Chi Minh City's streets, what could be nicer than enjoying a cold Bia Hoi (draft beer) with your driver in one of Saigon's innummerable eateries, chit-chatting. Many of the older drivers can tell you interesting stories about the war, which of course differ a lot, depending wether they fought for the north or the south. In fact there are several of them, who held higher positions within the southern regime, and so after 1975 they had to find another way to make a living. Many of the drivers have been doing the job for ages now, like Duc in Bui Vien Street, who has been driving a Xe Om for twelve years. Talking with them you can find out lots about how life and traffic changed in the city during the past decade.
How to hire a Xe Om
Normaly it should not be a big issue for you to hire a Xe Om, instead the driver will hire you. "You, motorbike?" That's the calling that sounds through Saigon's streets night and day. Especially in the Backpacker's Quarter, which means the streets around Pham Ngu Lao, Bui Vien and De Tham. But also downtown, in the area of Dong Khoi, it's more than easy to get a ride, as Xe Om are offering their services at almost every corner.
To avoid a rip-off it's important always to negotiate the price for a ride in advance. For a ride within the borders of District 1, you should not pay more than VN Dong 7.000 - 10.000, depending on the distance. If you pay by hour the average price is VN Dong 15.000 (1 US$). Xe Om is not only a good solution within the city but also for longer trips to the famous Cu Chi Tunnels (around 7 US$) or the beaches of Vung Tau (around 10 US$). Of course it's a little bit more than most travel agents in the Backpacker's Quarter charge for a bus ride, but it's worth it. As you don't have a fixed schedule for the trip, this is a unique way to discover the country.
The safety of your ride of course depends mostly on the skills of the driver, but you can also contribute your part. One important thing is to sit close to the driver, the closer you sit, the easier the bike is to balance. You also should not carry your belongings too openly, a backpack which you wear on both shoulders is a good solution.
Enjoy your ride!
The real thing
The first thing that hits you when entering Ho Chi Minh City is the traffic. A traffic that cannot be compared to any other place in the world. Motorbikes. Wherever you look. Motorbikes, Motorbikes, Motorbikes. Honda, Daelim, Minsk. Vietnam has the highest motorbike per capita rate on earth. Around 3 million of them in Ho Chi Minh City alone. And it seems as if the Vietnamese ride their motorbikes 24/7. Not surprising at all, that Vietnamese traffic is considered to be one of the most dangerous worldwide. Eventhough the nicest way to explore the urban jungle of Saigon is still on a Motorbike. And the best solution, unless you are an experienced driver, is on the back of a Motorbike Taxi. In Vietnam these Taxis are called "Xe Om" and if translated litteraly this means "hugging vehicle" due to the fact that you sit very close to the driver, almost hugging him. Using a Xe Om has many advantages. It's not only the quickest solution but also one of the the cheapest. But an even better reason to take a Xe Om is the unique experience of Saigon traffic straight from within. As you don't have to care about driving, you can spend all the time in the world just looking around, gazing. You will see things which you never thought to be possible, a complete family on a single motorbike for instance, a Honda loaded with so many goods that the driver can barely see, or a live pig transported on the back of a bike. Riding through Ho Chi Minh City during rush hour is one of the Vietnam-experiences that are not to forget. And its a "real" one, as this insane traffic is an essential part of Vietnamese every day life.
Get in touch with the locals
Riding the Xe Om is also a good way to get in touch with the locals as most drivers speak good English and often French as well. After a day swallowing the dust of Ho Chi Minh City's streets, what could be nicer than enjoying a cold Bia Hoi (draft beer) with your driver in one of Saigon's innummerable eateries, chit-chatting. Many of the older drivers can tell you interesting stories about the war, which of course differ a lot, depending wether they fought for the north or the south. In fact there are several of them, who held higher positions within the southern regime, and so after 1975 they had to find another way to make a living. Many of the drivers have been doing the job for ages now, like Duc in Bui Vien Street, who has been driving a Xe Om for twelve years. Talking with them you can find out lots about how life and traffic changed in the city during the past decade.
How to hire a Xe Om
Normaly it should not be a big issue for you to hire a Xe Om, instead the driver will hire you. "You, motorbike?" That's the calling that sounds through Saigon's streets night and day. Especially in the Backpacker's Quarter, which means the streets around Pham Ngu Lao, Bui Vien and De Tham. But also downtown, in the area of Dong Khoi, it's more than easy to get a ride, as Xe Om are offering their services at almost every corner.
To avoid a rip-off it's important always to negotiate the price for a ride in advance. For a ride within the borders of District 1, you should not pay more than VN Dong 7.000 - 10.000, depending on the distance. If you pay by hour the average price is VN Dong 15.000 (1 US$). Xe Om is not only a good solution within the city but also for longer trips to the famous Cu Chi Tunnels (around 7 US$) or the beaches of Vung Tau (around 10 US$). Of course it's a little bit more than most travel agents in the Backpacker's Quarter charge for a bus ride, but it's worth it. As you don't have a fixed schedule for the trip, this is a unique way to discover the country.
The safety of your ride of course depends mostly on the skills of the driver, but you can also contribute your part. One important thing is to sit close to the driver, the closer you sit, the easier the bike is to balance. You also should not carry your belongings too openly, a backpack which you wear on both shoulders is a good solution.
Enjoy your ride!
posted by Sternenstauner at 10:44 AM
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